Bluejackets’ Manual

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Nautical; it’s not off the boat – adorned and altered, staple stripes and wide-leg trousers anchor this SS15.

An artillery of pom-poms, mermaid flotsam and floral appliqué: this season we are equipped with a novel nautical as seafarer patriotism is over.

Marc Jacobs and Chanel remained ashore, inspired by the political and economic climates influencing their military utilitarianism and athletic aesthetics, while others drifted out to sea. Influenced by escapism and transformation designers created collections fit for the expedient modern sailor.

Navigating the lead is JW Anderson, motivated by a beach trip inspired by comical French filmmaker Jacques Tati. Subtle humour decks the way with must-have poppling leather fisherman hats, sailing ropes, sou’westers and seafarer bibs. Heavy-duty ready-to-wear navy pencil skirts and belted trench coats suit those voyaging to uncharted destinations this spring.

And if Anderson’s knitwear-as-towelling is too stern for you then Damir Doma is the way to go: “he’s not the kind of guy who makes dresses from striped towels,” says Nicole Phelps of Doma’s collection features practical comfortable clothing: mesh-like lace T-shirts, button-less jacket and suspended halter dresses.

Richard Nicoll featured a fibre optic glow in the dark jellyfish dress but ruling the tide is Rodarte with a space-age shipwreck. Conventional maritime reef-knot-clasps and angler jackets drenched in deep functional pockets can wave goodbye and take a bow. Mermaid paraphernalia steals the show with chasséing sequins, sea-urchin-like pom-poms, rafts of netting and cascading crinoline in seaweed greens and ethereal mints.

However if impersonating Disney’s The Little Mermaid isn’t your cup of tea, Breton stripes at Sonia Rykiel blew other graphic prints out the water. Patrick Grant of traditional men’s Savile Row, E. Tautz, now harbours womenswear. Sartorial deckchairs, oversized denim, cuffed culottes and elbow-length sleeves embody “the idea of transformation that Brits have when they go to the seaside,” states Grant. Doused in a seafarer-colour-spectrum of stripes, Emporio Armani favoured blue as it splashed ahead of the race. Also jumping on the ship-wagon are Tibi and Eudon Choi. Cornflower, sky, navy, metallic and gunmetal, which will be your catch?

Finally, the quintessence of the seafarer trend: the wide-leg sailor trouser. Featured aplenty with a 70s vibe such as at Gucci, trousers, jumpsuits and sailor-esque jeans were transformed with gold-button plackets.

Don’t commit Maritime Law: transforming your kitchen to a galley couldn’t be easier this season. John Lewis supply you with ample shell-shape lighting and soft furnishings while Liberty’s stock a plethora of sea-inspired crockery.

Are you on (star)board?


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